Charlotte and Arthur head off into the Snowdonia mountains.

Hopefully rested after at least a day in Conwy, the honeymooners set off for Beddgelert via Llanberis travelling up the impressive and breathtaking Llanberis Pass (Pen-y-Pass) to see the Snowdon horseshoe of mighty mountains; Snowdon being the highest mountain in Wales. They then would drop down through the lush Gwynant valley to Llyn (lake) Gwynant and on to the charming village of Beddgelert. One assumes they would have stayed a night there as it would be impossible to do a day return journey by horse and carriage, their hotel for the night probably being the Royal Goat given the son of an acquaintance of Charlotte’s -Sir James Kay-Shuttleworth - had married the landlord’s daughter. 

Beddgelert is nestled in a lush, green valley with a river fed by copious amounts of mountain rain, a delightful Anglican Church, St Mary’s, and solid Welsh stone cottages. I would imagine Charlotte and Arthur enjoyed their stay there and might have visited the grave (bedd) of the poor dog Gelert. If you don’t know the story it’s worth looking it up!

I travelled in the honeymooners’ footsteps by car. It’s a breathtaking journey climbing to 1,177 feet to the top of Pen-Pass. Imagine that in a horse drawn vehicle when the weather wasn’t at its best. Imagine doing this after an 8am wedding, a same day long journey to Conwy, a slower next day probably seeing the sights of Conwy and then setting off into the mountains with a cold and cough developing. I’m in awe of Charlotte’s stamina! But her effort was rewarded as she wrote, 

“one drive indeed from Llanberis to Beddgelert surpassed anything I remember of the English Lakes”.


Driving the Llanberis pass climbing up through  the mountains coming into view.



Llanberis as it is now but not as Charlotte would have known it in 1854.

The Snowdonia mountains. 

The view of the Snowdon horseshoe from the top of Pen-y-Pass.

The view from the top of Pen-y-Pass looking down the Nant Gwynant valley to Llyn Gwynant travelling beyond to Beddgelert.


Assuming Charlotte and Arthur stayed here, I’m sure she would have welcomed a well earned rest after the breathtaking journey, in the Royal Goat Hotel, Beddgelert.

A welcome sight for any weary traveller - entrance to The Royal Goat Hotel.

The River Glaslyn running through Beddgelert 

Cottages in Beddgelert 

 

St Mary’s Anglican Church. Would Charlotte and Arthur have visited it?

The Reverend John Jones who studied at Trinity College Dublin and Vicar at St Mary’s, Beddgelert at the time of  Charlotte and Arthur’s visit. Would Arthur have known of him? Would he have called on him as an old boy of Trinity?

The list of perpetual curates. Rev John Jones in post at the time of Charlotte and Arthur’s visit.

After their visit they would have returned to the Bangor area, one assumes, ready for the next stage of their honeymoon journey to Ireland. En route they probably saw Canaerfon castle and maybe Penrhyn Castle, Bangor, North Wales.
Penrhyn Castle, Bangor, North Wales.
Canaerfon Castle, North  Wales.

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